You can spin using a wheel (there are LOTS of kinds) or a drop spindle. I enjoy using both and have 3 wheels (2 which I rent out) and several drop spindles. I favor Bosworth drop spindles.
I have been spinning off and on (on a lot more in the last few years) for 30-ish years. I first saw a gal spinning in Old Town San Diego on an Ashford Traditional wheel, and fell immediately under its trance. I KNEW I could do it. I bought a kit wheel from Ashford, a set of hand carders, the book the Joy of Spinning, and some clean, greasy wool from New Zealand. I have been happily spinning ever since!
Now days I am teaching spinning workshops out of my home in Cleveland Heights.
If you are going to be a serious spinner, you need to learn to use the Internet! It has ENDLESS information, videos, suppliers — you name it, the Internet has it.
|Articles from SpinOff||Spindle
Spinning Basics – a get started article by Maggie Casey
for Worsted and Woolen style yarns on a Spindle — a nice article by
Carol Huebscher Rhoades
|Andean Plying — you might want to try this with your wheel as well — it is only really suited for SMALL amounts of fiber.|
|Drop Spindle Videos||The Joy Of
|Spinning on a Wheel|
|Articles from SpinOff||Spinning
on a wheel — by Maggie Casey
Short Draw, Drafting Woolen Yarn by Carol Huebscher Rhoades
Long Draw, Drafting for Worsted Yarn by Carol Huebscher Rhoades
Welding Poly Band Drive Bands
- Adjust the drive belt tension setting of the wheel to near the low (short) end of it’s range. Use the smallest whorl to measure. Do not stretch the belt. Route the belt around the wheel and cut to length allowing approximately 1/8″ overlap or extra, which will be lost in the join.
- Charka belts are fit in a similar way; fit the primary belt first but do not provide the 1/8″ overlap. Withe the primary belt in place, adjust the accelerating idler until it turns positively. Repeat the measuring and welding process on the secondary belt with a spindle in place and the mouse trap adjusted close to the pulley.
- Hold both ends of the belt in one hand about 1/4 inch apart. extending to 1/2 to 1 inch between your thumb and forefinger. Approach the ends with a small flame (a candle works well) but not so close as to burn or even cause a color change. Heat the ends simultaneously.
- Slowly allow the ends of the belt to soften from the heat. This requires some patience. You will be able to see the plastic flow as it softens. Heavier belts take more time than lighter ones.
- Remove the flame, take one end in each hand and push them together. Hold a steady end-to-end pressure with good parallel alignment as the plastic cools. Turn the belt about 90 degrees to be sure the ends are aligned. Don’t push too hard or you will squeeze out all the softened plastic.
- When you have a solid join. but before the plastic cools completely, roll the joint between your fingers to smooth out the lump which formed when you pushed the ends together. If you want to trim the lump even further you can use sharp sewing scissors, fingernail clippers or a knife.
- The join you just made will be nearly as strong as the material.
- This material will permanently elongate slightly when first put under tension. It has a memory, though, and will always come back to its length. When you have stretched it slightly, say around the largest whorl, it will take a few moments to relax to its permanent length. With proper setting of your tension adjustment the belt should stretch to fit on all whorls.
- Enjoy spinning with the positive grip and freedom from tension adjustment that your new long wearing plastic belt provides.
- DOUBLE DRIVE spinners: When the belt is new it may want to fly off because it will not easily slip past itself at the cross. This can be fixed by wiping the belt with a tissue that has a few drops of oil on it, leaving a very light film on the belt. As the belt gets broken in this will no longer be necessary.